Hanoi, Vietnam - Day 1

On March 21, 2009 we headed to Vietnam to visit Hanoi, Sapa and Halong Bay. All these cities are located in North Vietnam. Hanoi is the Capital of Vietnam and means "bend in the river" as the city is located on the Red River which comes down from China and runs through the city. Hanoi became the Capital in 1010, so they are planning a big 1000 year celebration in 2010. Vietnam has many influences having been ruled by the Chinese and French and politically guided by the Russians. The French took control of Hanoi in 1888 until 1954 and portions of the city's architecture has a French influence. The population is about 3.5 million people with about 2/3 of the people using a motorbike as their primary mode of transportation. It is organized chaos like you have never seen! There are no road rules so drivers of motorbikes and cars drive in every lane, every direction, turn from anywhere they want - it is unbelievable!! You don't go a minute without hearing honking from a car or motorbike as honking is viewed as a reminder to others that you are approaching rather than an angry motorist.

On our first day we visited the Hoa Lo Prison, known to us as the Hanoi Hilton - the prison that housed US airman during the Vietnam War. It is located in the French Quarter of the city. It was built and opened by the French in 1896 to imprison anti-colonial movements. There were many Vietnamese patriots and revolutionaries imprisoned there by the French during their occupation. Vietnam became liberated in 1954 and the prison housed American pilots from August 1964-March 1973. There is a section dedicated to the American Pilots that includes many of their personal belongings such as clothing (even John McCain's Fighter Pilot suit), photos of them being captured from their planes, Everett Alvarez's belongings (first US pilot shot down and captured). The propaganda is unbelievable. A plaque is posted with regards to the treatment of the US pilots stating " During the war, the National Economy was difficult but the Vietnamese Government had created the best living conditions to US pilots for they had a stable life during the temporary detention period". There are pictures of US serviceman decorating xmas trees, making dinner, playing basketball, laughing etc... We met a woman there who good friend's husband was a prisoner there for 6+ years. She said he talked mostly of the tapping on the walls to communicate with fellow serviceman, not any of the "parties" shown in the pictures. In John McCain's book he writes of similar situations and stated that they would take them out of their cells to photograph them having a normal living situation but that was not the reality. The cells were small and dark and the building that remains today is about 1/3 of the actual prison as the rest of it has been torn down for office buildings.

The visit was very interesting and the Vietnamese like the Americans suffered greatly at the prison. The original guillotine is displayed that was used by the French against Vietnamese activists. Admission to the museum was 5,000 dong - 17,000 dong = 1 USD. The Vietnamese accept the US dollar as much if not more than the Vietnamese Dong. Many of the items we purchased were listed in US dollars.

Flat Stanley comes to Singapore, vacations in Vietnam

Flat Stanley came to visit us in March. Kristin's friend Clare Hoult sent Flat Stanley to us. Flat Stanley had the great opportunity of visiting SAS - Singapore American School and then heading to Changi Airport to vacation in Vietnam. While there Flat Stanley had the opportunity to visit Hanoi and sit with Budda and see Confucius. The Buddah smiled down very favorable on Flat Stanley!! He rode on the cyclo ride around the streets of Hanoi, undoubtedly some of the busiest streets in the World and helped pick out a Vietnamese hat. Flat Stanley boarded the night train to go to Sapa, a town in the far Northwest corner of Vietnam. While on the train he enjoyed a serving of Creme Brulee in the Dining Car. A highlight of his trip was meeting the hill tribe women of Sapa. In his photo, he is visiting with a member of the Red Dao (pronounced Zao) tribe. These women live in the hills of Sapa - they make their own goods and harvest the rice fields in Oct/Nov. Flat Stanley needed to rest and found a great spot in the teeth of a white dragon!! Flat Stanley's last stop before heading home was Halong Bay where he visited the Surprise Cave - a huge rock formation with many caves inside. We made sure that he had a life preserver in case he thought about jumping overboard!! Flat Stanley will be headed back to the United States on March 30 and hopefully will make it back to Clare's classroom by April 6. We enjoyed our time with Flat Stanley and wish him many more safe and exciting travels!!

Bali, Indonesia

On January 25 we left for a short vacation to Bali, Indonesia. Bali is an Indonesia island which is strongly influenced by Indian and Chinese culture. The island is inhabited with a population of 3,151,000 people. The majority of Bali's population are Hindu whereas Indonesia as whole follows Islam. Tourism is the leading industry making it one of Indonesians wealthiest regions. The island is known for its arts - batik and ikat cloth, wood carvings, stone carvings , painting and music. While tourism is the money maker, agriculture is the largest employer in the region with the rice being the biggest industry. There is also coffee production , small amounts of fruits and vegetables and fishing.

Being there for only a short period we tried to balance fun with seeing the sights. The first full day we went white water rafting. We donned our gear, life vests, helmets and oars and set out for an 2 hour ride along the Telaga Waja River with our guide. We quickly learned the appropriate lingo and got the hang of going through the rapids after a few episodes of being hung up on the rocks! Our guide was quite the comedian constantly stopping short and flying us about in the boat. We ended our ride with a lunch on the river. Upon leaving the area we were bombarded with people trying to sell us goods. The goods ranged from small wood carvings to t-shirts and the people were relentless. Jim bought one t-shirt only to be pegged as someone who would buy and was immediately followed and almost harassed by another peddler. She followed him up 200 steps in an attempt to get him to purchase another t-shirt. She kept coming down in the price as he told her had no more money. If you can picture her walking up the steps, speaking Balinese/English chasing him down while carrying 20-30 more tshirts on her head, it was quite a sight!!

That evening we went to dinner at a fantastic restaurant with our friends, the Bartons. It was about an hour car ride away as everything in Bali is fairly spread out. The restaurant was on a plateau overlooking the ocean and rice fields. We arrived in time to catch a beautiful Balinese sunset and once set it started to rain so we ate in a semi covered area and had a meal of fresh fish. There was a local band there serenading all the tables. It was as if they were imitating the Beatles - it was really fun! After dinner, the rain stopped and we had a drink while listening to water crash upon the shore.

The next day we had a day of site seeing planned. We piled the kids - Allison, Kristin, Noah and George - and 4 adults - Jim, Jeff, Susan and myself with a driver, who charged $35 for the day , into a SUV and off we went. He first took us to the Batik making center. Batik is a traditional style of weaving, using a loom and hand dyed fabrics. Their were woman set up with their looms as well as women doing hand painted pictures on fabric using hot wax. Batik pieces are passed down through family generations. There are certain tribes that know that art of Batik making, and generally the girls start learning the process around the age of 13. What is produced ranges from simple shirts, dresses, boxes to large framed pieces. It is quite an industry for the people creating them. We next went to a silver shop where they make jewelry. Most of the silver and gold is imported by they do all the art work. As with any industry in Bali, the sales people follow you around the store and if you show the slightest bit of interest the bargaining begins. You have to be able to walk away if you want to bargain them down otherwise they are full of reasons why the price is firm. Bargaining is definitely an art that you get better at with experience.

We next went to lunch at a beautiful restaurant that overlooked rice fields. The rice fields are absolutely beautiful and I have whole new respect for every grain of rice I eat! It is an enormous amount of work and the individuals harvesting the rice are all ages. There quite a few older men and women in the fields in the heat picking the rice. We then all piled back into the car and headed out for the wood carving store.

Wood carving is a speciality in Bali. The store has magnificent pieces, some enormous and some as simple as a recorder. At the front entrance the artist were there carving the wood and it is really quite a process. It was amazing to watch them work the wood and see the end results of what could be created. The compound where the store was housed family homes as well. There was a temple in the middle that was quite a site - large golden figurines. Obviously this was a well to do family who had more solid structures than the home we had previously viewed. The artwork was amazing and we walked away with a piece that depicted the Indonesian version of Romeo and Juliet. In their version the ending is a happy one and they end up together!

Our guide then took us to a typical Balinese home. Individuals let tourist see their homes as a way to get money. When entered into an open space or large compound area that housed about 4 huts. Two huts were sleeping quarters, another a kitchen , one was an open bed that was used only when someone passed away and displayed the body. Each hut was raised off the ground and had thatched roofing which is said to last about 30 years. The kitchen was very basic with no refrigeration, no electricity. The woman start cooking in the morning on a wood burning stove and food is kept for 48 hours and then discarded. Each compound has its own temple for which the family prays to the Gods and pays homage to its ancestors. The compound had a well for water, pigs, chickens and 2 porcupines which had been captured because it had been eating the rice in the fields and were housed and fed. They had certain chickens that were kept in cages for chicken fighting which is a ritual for them. There was no plumbing on the grounds. The compounds are passed down through generations and house members of the family as the family grows. Men stay at their compounds and women , upon marriage, move in with the men's family.

Our next stop of the day was an art gallery. It had local painters in the front of the shop creating art, drawing and painting. The art ranged in size and style. Some were still life paintings, others very modern depictions. the gallery went on and on in every direction. It was almost so overwhelming the number of painting that it was difficult to decide on what caught you eye. We picked up a painting for friends of our back in Singapore that they had seen in the works when they were last in Bali that was now completed. The artist was there working on another piece, it was fun to be able to see the artists at work.

Our final stop of the day was the Monkey Forest. Monkeys in Indonesia are considered to be sacred animals. The forest is an actual preservation site in which researchers are able to study the monkeys behavior within their habitat. That being said the monkeys are very attuned to the humans and that humans bring food and therefore are fairly forward in approaching humans. Jim, Allison and Kristin all had a monkey climb up on their shoulders and heads in order to get food! Once there, they were fairly comfortable and unfazed to be sitting on them! It is unbelievable how many monkeys there are - thousands! Big, small, young and old - could be the makings for a Dr. Seuss book! It was quite a site and the monkeys just roam around looking for any food you have to offer.

Our final day in Bali was a pool day at the resort. We really needed to build a little more of this into our stay as the sight seeing and the time spend in the car was tiring. The girls loved the pool and the pool bar was really fun!

Bali overall was a nice getaway. It was very different than I had envisioned as I think it is often painted as paradise. I found it to be an interesting place but not as tropical and breath taking as I would have thought. The people of Bali are kind and hard working. The standard of living is low compared to what we are accustom to and many jobs are very labor intensive. In my view it is a very hard life and the city is crowded with very narrow roads. It would not be uncommon to see a family (mother, father, child and baby) on one motorcycle as that it a major mode of transport. The transportation infrastructure is very archaic and the roads sometime have room for only one car even though there is traffic in both directions! It is an eye opener to see how the rest of the World lives!!

Chinese New Year Photos

Some additional Chinese New Year Pictures! The first one is a mall decorated with red laterns. The next is the salad and the salad toss. And the remaining are the evening in China town.

Chinese New Year - The Year of the Ox

Chinese New Year or the Lunar New Year is one of the most important Chinese holidays. The holiday begins on the first day of the Lunar month on the Chinese calendar and lasts for 15 days. This year ,the year of the Ox, celebrations will start on January 26 and end on February 9.

The myth behind Chinese New Year is based on the mythical beast called the Nian. The Nian would devour the crops, children and livestock on the first day of each year. The villagers would put food in front of their doors which would protect them as Nian would eat the food instead of their crops, children etc... Myth has it that Nian was scared away by the color red, hence the use of red lanterns, scrolls and clothing in the color red during this period. All over Singapore red lanterns hand from doors of homes and shops. Lion and Dragon dances are held to scare away the bad or evil spirits and bring good luck. The dances are quite magnificent having large colorful lion heads with embroidered cloth and housed by acrobatic men making the lion dance.

Leading up to the days of the celebrations is a time of thorough cleaning, sweeping away of the bad luck. People buy new clothing, shoes, new hair cuts - symbolizing a fresh start in the New Year. The first day is a time when families come together to honor family - past and present. Each day holds particular meaning as to who it to be visited and pay homage to.

Mandarin oranges are popular during this period as they represent gold. Colorful Mandarin trees of all sizes are seen throughout the country in front of homes, hotels, etc... I participated in a Yushengs which is the tossing of the salad. The higher you toss the salad which is made of many different vegetables and fish, the greater luck and prosperity you will have that year. Another tradition is the Red Envelopes or hong bao are passed out during this period. They almost always contain money but always in even numbers with the exception of the number 4. 4 is considered bad luck because it is a homophone for death, whereas 8 is considered good luck as it is a homophone for wealth. Decorations with Chinese characters are hung on the doors and Allison pointed out to me that one must be turned upside down. This allows the good luck to come in to the home.

We were treated by our friends, Tony and Rebecca to a wonderful Chinese New Year meal. Tony and Rebecca were both born in China and have since immigrated to the US but moved over to Singapore with Abbott around the same time we did. Rebecca told us that Chinese New Year is more celebrated in Singapore than it is in China. That is because during the late 1970's China had their cultural revolution which basically stripped any cultural out of China. It was time when everyone was to be made equal and religion ceased to exist in the eyes of the government. Rebecca now is reminded of the traditions of Chinese New Year living in Singapore. They took us,with another family, Irene, John and Luca, to a Chinese restaurant and ordered food, including a yusheng salad and we tossed in the good luck for the coming year. It really was a great way for us all to celebrate our new found friendships here in Singapore.

We experienced our first Lion Dance which was truly amazing. Two men perform many acrobatic moves and manipulate the lion, it is beautiful and quite an athletic feat. One man is in the back of the lion controlling his hind legs and lifting at times his partner. The man in the front controls the head and the front feet. It is awesome how real the character becomes.

The girls fully embraced the traditions of Chinese New Year and were sure to wear Red clothes on the first night so they wouldn't be devoured by the Nian. They were mesmerized by the lion and dragon dances and enjoyed a crowded but fun trip to China Town. Overall the holiday is one that very much encompasses family and tradition.

We had a great Chinese New Year this year and hope for a great 2009, the year of the Ox. Which by the way according to the Chinese zodiac, Allison is an Ox!

Home for the Holidays

We just got back from a three week vacation at "home" , the US. It was great to be back in the United States and spend time with family and friends. Here is a recap...

* Fortunately we got upgraded to business class in both directions. It was huge relief especially because Kristin told me " Mom, you know I can't sleep in economy!"

*You forget how long a 18 hour flight is and that jet lag really does exist!

* Greeted at O'Hare with 16 degree weather - that is cold for us who have not seen a cooler temp than 85 and live on the equator!

* Our luggage made it from Singapore to O'hare but not from O'Hare to Newark - what does that tell you?

* Saw our dog, Jenkins who was happy to see us and us to see him. He wouldn't leave the kids room our last night at my parents.

* Finally got to meet Claudia, Brian and Lisa's daughter who they adopted from China in July. She is amazing and full of life and energy. Colton was great as always and the girls had a wonderful time seeing him!

* Had many Christmas parties and got to see the Rubensteins and hear about Jamie's plans for college next year, and visit with the Gersh and Hernandez families. We really enjoyed seeing everyone! Thank you Mom for all the wonderful food!

* Went to Michigan to spend time with Jim's family. Stayed with Karen, Rick and Owen - who is growing up so much. Thanks for being our home while we we in Michigan!

* Had another Christmas party with the Wenner clan and it was great to see all the cousins together - Allison, Kristin, Quinn, Casey, Cooper, Maya, Eli & Owen - they all had a great time playing together! Thank you Carolyn for putting together a great meal for so many people!

* A great night out with our friends who live in Michigan - Eppinks, Hutchisons, Walls, Morans & Leepers - it was great to get together and laugh. We feel lucky to have such great, lifelong friends!

* Watched the MSU game at Russ and Ruth's - thanks for the great food, the outcome of the game could have been better!!

* Had a 4 hour drive from Michigan to Chicago in perfect weather - almost unheard of to make that kind of time and not hit traffic.

* Stayed with Leslie, Jack and Noah - who is so cute. It was great to spend the time together!

* Allison and Kristin had a social weekend at Kelli and Bridget's houses - thank you Cherri for having them and basically letting them move in for a few days!

*Seeing the Casper's and how much Carson and Pierce have grown!

* A great night out with our soccer crowd - Quane's , Hoult's, McKernan's, Villanueva's - it was wonderful to see everyone.

*Kristin had fun seeing Clare and Lilly, her old soccer buddies

* Thank you to Paul, Tasha and Drake for having us stay at Chateau Fitzgibbons while we were in IL. It was great to spend the time catching up and to see the kids have so much fun!

* Target - what else is there to say!

* Pulling into a parking space forward - really it is a treat!

* Ate at Panera - twice!

* Seeing everyone from Lake Forest Hospital - I miss you all!

* Having lunch with Karen - great to see you and pick up like it was yesterday.

* Seeing the Paslaski Clan - thanks Judy for having us over!

* Meet the renters who live in our house, we feel fortunate to have great people living there who really love our home.

* Maureen and Erin it was fun to catch up on the neighborhood and good old GLSA!!

We really enjoyed our time in the US as it will always be home and we appreciate it more now than ever. We really do live in a great country!! Happy 2009!!